Franklin Barbecue | Austin, Texas

There’s really no place in the world like the US that does BBQ. There’s really no place in the US like Texas that does BBQ. And there’s really no place in Texas that does BBQ quite like Franklin Barbecue... 

This place is certainly an institution with some seriously attractive BBQ. Arguably the best BBQ joint in the US, Franklin Barbecue was started 8 years ago out of a trailer in Austin, Texas by Aaron Franklin and his wife Stacey. Located in the heart of Austin, Aaron and his wife open their doors to locals and tourists from all over; 6 days a week starting at 11am sharp every day. With lines starting daily at around 4am (yes 4am) people wait for hours to get a taste of this delicacy while being teased by the smell of burning post oak puffing from the smoke stacks out back. Unlike most BBQ joints, Franklin usually closes his doors around 2-3pm. The staff that works around the clock smoking over 5500 lbs of meat A DAY is only open for about 3 hours before they sell out. Go ahead; let that sink in for a minute. I’ll wait. 

A venture like this definitely requires a crew; order everything to try as much as possible and do your best damage. My team included: myself (4 time self proclaimed national eating champion of the world, duh), Izzy Weiss (an Alinea and EMP alum) and Anthony Falco and his wife (pizza consultant and connoisseur, the original chef at Roberta’s in BK). We got there a little after 10:30am and the line was already up the block with a hefty 5-hour wait. Lucky for us, Aaron knew we were hungry and set us up out back at a picnic table adjacent his smokers and office – the best table in town. 

Aaron’s menu reads like almost every other BBQ spot. Earlier in the year I gave a bestowing review on my (late) favorite BBQ, Hometown BBQ in Red Hook Brooklyn. Although the concept and idea are similar, I have never had meat like I had here in Austin (sorry Bill). The sides: Cole slaw, backyard beans done right with a looser consistency than most beans around town, potato salad and, of course, some good ol’ sweet pickles. 

The only thing in the whole day I didn’t like was just the potato salad but that wasn’t necessarily a reflection on the potatoes. Yes, they could have used some more seasoning in general but the style that they do is something I’m just not a fan of. Actually, all the potato salad I’ve had down here is done a similar way; they almost serve it like mashed potatoes, but cold. It’s just personally something I don’t like. I want chunky, fatty, acidic and herbaceous potatoes, ya feel me? 

For the meat, it’s a pretty standard menu but let’s take it piece by piece. First, brisket. Grass fed, locally raised brisket. Hands down the moistest piece of meat I’ve ever had; perfectly fatty, which just melts like butter between your fingers. It wasn’t too smoky either. Good BBQ shouldn’t taste like the inside of a grill. A soft taste of smoke is all you should really be getting letting the meat really speak for itself. What’s nice about these Texas cows is they’re very happy cows. The sinew (connective tissue) and fat just slowly render down giving you that nice texture that brisket should have while still keeping intact. For a better picture, imagine picking that piece up by one end and letting it just hang. It shouldn’t just fall apart on your table. It should stay intact but you should be able to see through the little cracks that form as it hangs. Makes sense? 

*Fun Fact: They have sold out of brisket EVERY DAY since they opened back in 2009* 

The beef rib, which is only served on Saturdays, is massive. They do a 3-bone rib as opposed to a 5-bone (the number of ribs connected per piece while smoking) which lets heat permeate and cook more evenly between the ribs. The five bone comes from the chuck area while the three bone comes from the front end, much bigger and fattier ribs sought after by most pit masters. On the meat chart they're rib number's 6, 7 & 8. Fall off the bone, flaky, fatty, juicy ribs. 

Speaking of fall off the bone, I’ve never had a pork spare rib quite like theirs. Super tender pork with a sweet glaze and a little coarse black pepper does just the trick on these bad boys. Then there was pulled pork that didn’t need to be dowsed in sauce to keep it from going dry, just effortlessly pulled, and it was beautiful. Next came beef and pork sausages with this unreal snap on them, and the BEST smoked turkey I’ve ever had. Actually, the best-smoked bird I’ve ever had and as you know I’m a sucker for the salsa verde smoked chicken from Hometown. 

Dessert here is also pretty special and can’t be overlooked. It takes a lot for me to say this being a pastry chef and also a fiend for Four & Twenty Black Birds but their pie is outta bounds delicious. Like, licking the wrapper delicious. All of them were superb, but their Texas pecan pie rivals anything I’ve ever eaten in that realm. Seriously, I don’t think you could give me a better slice. I dare you to try. The coolest thing about them is Aaron actually outsources these pies from a local woman who only sells to farmers markets (and himself). She’s the only lady in the area still pushing out traditional, old school style crusts on her pies. Check her out; she's called Cake & Spoon. 

I didn’t get an opportunity to experience their beer menu, as we were drinking Lone Stars (obviously) that we brought for the team while we were bullshittin’ out back smoking and learning for a few hours. The hospitality was unreal. Aaron, cause I know you will be reading this, you are a fucking ROCKSTAR and we couldn’t have had a better morning. Your passion speaks through your food and you are certainly a master at what you do, which I know you don’t need me to tell you. Good luck with the renovations and don’t change a fucking thing; I’ll be back soon. 

Other spots in queue in Austin: La Barbecue, Terry Blacks, Louie Muellers and Mickelwait's.

Tags: review, Texas, reviews, BBQ, restaurant, critic